A photographic how-to.

Started by uppercase25, June 23, 2008, 06:34:13 PM

previous topic - next topic
Go Down

uppercase25

June 23, 2008, 06:34:13 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by uppercase25
I was asked if I could write a quick guideline on one of many ways to take photos of Transformers with that "Oh, so white" background.

So here goes.

First off, you'll need a background of some sort. I've made mine out of 3 sheets of foam core board. One each for the bottom and back, and one half for each side. You can use anything that's large, flat, smooth and white. Next you'll need lights. When I don't have access to my gear, I'll use desk lamps. One lamp has an adjustable neck, and the other has a clip on type base. Whatever you've got around to use, the principle is still the same. Take the smaller of the two lights and shine it just on the background by either shining it from one side or from over the back of your setup. The idea is that when you place the figure in the set you're not hitting it with the light from the first light (as much as possible). Bring your other light in just above and slightly to one side of your camera. Here's where some trial and error comes in. The idea is that you want your background light to be 2-4 times (1-2 f-stops) brighter than your other light so you'll have to play with the distance between the light by the camera and the subject. If you can get it so the subject is properly exposed and the background is close to pure white in the camera it'll save a lot time in Photoshop. If you're familiar with the histogram function of your camera look for a big spike in the graph on the right side. The closer it gets to the edge of the graph the whiter the background will be. If it's not pure white when you get it into Photoshop I'll adjust the highlights using the Levels dialog box.

Some general tips:
Use a tripod. I shot some of these photos with exposures as long as 8 seconds. It's the only way to make sure the camera stays still.
White Balance. If your camera has a custom white balance get out your manual and learn how to use it. This will save loads of time, you shouldn't have to colour correct at all on the computer.
Macro. Usually seen as a flower on one of the cameras buttons. Especially useful for shooting small mini-con sized items. Lets you get in and focus close than you otherwise normally would. Here filling the frame is not as important as proper focusing. You can always crop out unneeded background. Also setting the self-timer will eliminate any camera shake from when you press the shutter.

None of this is an exact science. The great thing about digital cameras is they allow you to try different ways to accomplish what you're after.


Here's a shot of my setup.


Here's the picture of Evac straight from the camera.


Here's the final picture after some Photoshop.
I lightened the background until most of the white was reading 255 on all RGB values.
I had to clone out the line in the back where the back wall met the bottom.
I also lightened the shadow in the bottom right corner.

shmax

#1
June 23, 2008, 09:59:00 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by shmax
Great write-up, Uppercase25, thanks much. If I may add a comment, what about the idea of masking out the seam created where the background wall meets the floor with some white tape? Would that lessen the amount of final Photoshopping even more? Just a thought.

- shmax

uppercase25

#2
June 24, 2008, 02:04:35 AM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by uppercase25
Yes, white tape would help.  The problem would be getting it to match the background well enough so that you wouldn't have to be cloning out the tape from the background.  Plus this whole thing is made to be folded up flat when not in use. If the tape were to get folded, it would be almost as if there were no tape there to begin with.

In fact if you notice the two sheets of white paper in the first photo, I originally had them taped to the back so it curved down over the seam in the back.  When I looked through the viewfinder I saw 2 or 3 lines from shadows the paper was making.  So after doing all of this shooting for the site, I'll keep my eye out for a large white sheet of bristol board to remedy this next time.

shmax

#3
June 24, 2008, 08:46:30 AM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by shmax
Folks, I've given this write-up a permanent home on the site's photo guidelines page:

http://www.shmax.com/Photo_Guidelines

Now get busy! You have foam core to buy! Camera settings to twiddle! Funny hats to wear!

- shmax

Betsumei

#4
June 24, 2008, 09:27:17 AM Last Edit: June 30, 2008, 06:36:33 AM by Betsumei
My rig is similar. I actually used a LifeHacker tutorial, but the gist is that I took a cardboard box and cut out three sides of it (left, right, and top in the final configuration), and put tissue paper in them. The tissue paper softens the light shining on the subject. I've got a piece of white posterboard that goes along the bottom and curves up the back, so there's no seam. It works rather nice, but I don't own enough lamps/any good lamps (all photos so far are taken with the light fixtures on the ceiling turned on, and a single naked CFL in a lamp on the table next to the box). To get the background ultrawhite, I use the Curves tool in the GIMP to force those light greys into white. Seems to work so far without much problems.
<a href="http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125</a>

shmax

#5
June 24, 2008, 04:18:45 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by shmax
Very nice, indeed! Is there any reason you're not submitting more photos?
For everyone else, here's a link for downloading GIMP (Windows installer):

http://gimp-win.sourceforge.net/stable.html

Quote from: "Betsumei"
My rig is similar. I actually used a LifeHacker tutorial, but the gist is that I took a cardboard box and cut out three sides of it (left, right, and top in the final configuration), and put tissue paper in them. The tissue paper softens the light shining on the subject. I've got a piece of white posterboard that goes along the bottom and curves up the back, so there's no seam. It works rather nice, but I don't own enough lamps/any good lamps (all photos so far are taken with the light fixtures on the ceiling turned on, and a single naked CFL in a lamp on the table next to the box). To get the background ultrawhite, I use the Curves tool in the GIMP to force those light greys into white. Seems to work so far without much problems.

Betsumei

#6
June 24, 2008, 06:03:11 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by Betsumei
Quote from: "shmax"
Very nice, indeed! Is there any reason you're not submitting more photos?
For everyone else, here's a link for downloading GIMP (Windows installer):

http://gimp-win.sourceforge.net/stable.html
Yes... my daughter has played the insomniac card these last few days, and I haven't been able to take more. I've uploaded every picture I have that you need. But hey, she's in bed early tonight :P
<a href="http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125</a>

shmax

#7
June 25, 2008, 08:51:37 AM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by shmax
Question for Uppercase25 and Betsumei, who both seem to have this thing figured out: does this technique need any adaptation for shooting toys in the package? Engledogg tells me that he has trouble with reflection off the plastic blisters and windows. What's the secret?

Betsumei

#8
June 25, 2008, 09:07:59 AM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by Betsumei
Quote from: "shmax"
Question for Uppercase25 and Betsumei, who both seem to have this thing figured out: does this technique need any adaptation for shooting toys in the package? Engledogg tells me that he has trouble with reflection off the plastic blisters and windows. What's the secret?
I don't know how to totally eliminate it (and my single in-box photo can attest to that - looking closely, I can see the frame of my light box, and something that may be my little HP camera on the end of a tripod), but direct light from the camera side of the object is going to be the enemy. That's why I built this: http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/07/how-to-diy-10-macro-photo-studio.html. The less light hitting the surface from your direction, the less reflection you'll see. I haven't bothered with using the reflectors they mention, but it seems to work okay. I understand professionals use proper light tents that have no features inside to reflect, and a smaller opening for the camera. I just try to drown it out by placing all lights above or to the sides.

My real solution? Collect loose figures. :P

Cost of my setup (because it amuses me):

Box - the replacement parts for our highchair came in it, I just refused to throw it out until I found a use $0
Tissue paper to diffuse light - pack of 100 sheets at Dollarama $1+GST
Posterboard backdrop - two for a buck at Dollarama $0.50+GST
Scotch tape - found it in a drawer $0
Camera - got it at a company [strike]Christmas[/strike]Winter staff party $0
Tripod - bought it years ago at Zellers ~$30+GST
Lamp - used to look like an umbrella, but the previous owner lost the lampshade so now it's mine $0
Light bulbs (CFL x 4) - can't remember, I just use the lamp and the lights in my kitchen, which had bulbs anyways

<a href="http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=125</a>

Tripredacus

#9
May 16, 2009, 03:56:30 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by Guest
Quote from: "shmax"
Folks, I've given this write-up a permanent home on the site's photo guidelines page:

http://www.shmax.com/Photo_Guidelines

Now get busy! You have foam core to buy! Camera settings to twiddle! Funny hats to wear!

- shmax
These limit what I can offer as far as pictures. :(

Hellscream333

#10
May 17, 2009, 02:32:55 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by Guest
Quote from: "Tripredacus"
Quote from: "shmax"
Folks, I've given this write-up a permanent home on the site's photo guidelines page:

http://www.shmax.com/Photo_Guidelines

Now get busy! You have foam core to buy! Camera settings to twiddle! Funny hats to wear!

- shmax
These limit what I can offer as far as pictures. :(
In what ways?
<a href="http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=13" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=13</a>

Hellscream333

#11
June 10, 2009, 06:22:41 PM Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 04:00:00 PM by Guest
Well of all the silly potatoes... guys, I got a problem and I just can't seem to get rid of it. Here goes:

I can't shoot a dang thing that's red or orange without it coming out fuzzy. I don't get it. Blues, Greens, combo colors, anything else comes out great. Put a red or orange subject in my view finder and I get crap. refer to Encore Ironhide for a direct example. Anyone have any suggestions because the internetz is failing me for assistance.... :sadpanda


before you ask...
cam: Kodak M863
setting: macro
setup: 3-70 watt lamps, curved shite bg, 14x14x14 inch box
<a href="http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=13" target="_blank" class="new_win">http://www.shmax.com/img/sigs/signature.swf?user_id=13</a>

Go Up